Q. I have 35 windows to replace in my 100 year two floor house. I recently got three estimates, one from Lowes Thermastar Pella double-hung vinyl, but they feel cheap at the store. Home Depot offered a cheap American Craftsmen that has horror reviews. I am currently considering Pella's Encompass line, order directly from manufacturer, does anyone have any reviews about this line or other suggestions on good windows to consider? Thanks!

A. In an old home like that vinyl windows would look out of place. Most of the major window manufacturer's make whats called 'tilt pak' These are replacement sashes and will tilt in for cleaning like the modern windows do. you just replace the sashes within the existing frame so there is very little to demo and the current trim stays in place. You can get wood inside and aluminum or vinyl out side. And they are also dual pane.

Q. So, a little bit of background.... I purchased my home in 2008. It was built in 1975, but was recently renovated and looks absolutely gorgeous. The previous owners replaced the outdoor air conditioner unit, but left the original "internals" intact (i.e., evaporator coil, duct work, etc.). This has caught up to me now, as my current tenants are complaining that the A/C does not work. I was told that an A/C system should be able to cool a home 10-20 degrees Farenheit by two different technicians. I had an A/C technician diagnose the system yesterday. I was told that there were no leaks (it was pressure-tested). The problem had to do with the age of the system - the duct work and "internals" are too old, and thus just aren't efficient. They recommended a COMPLETE replacement of the A/C system - outdoor unit, e-coils, duct work - the whole nine yards. I asked the A/C company if the system was actually broken. I was told that an A/C system should be able to cool a home 10-20 degrees Fahrenheit normally. From what my landlord stated, my tenants are complaining that the home will not cool below 83 degrees. If what the A/C tech. stated was true (and this is the second time I've heard this), than the A/C is cooling the house 17 degrees cooler than the outside (it's currently 100.5 degrees), which is completely normal. Anyway, the A/C company's recommendations seem a bit drastic. From a landlord's perspective, replacing the system is a horrible move. It's a $10,000 upgrade for tenants that have been there for less than a year. It's a $10,000 upgrade for MAYBE 3 degrees cooler. On top of that, it's $10k I don't have. What I instructed my landlord to do was explain all of this to my tenant - that they have to set the A/C 15-20 degrees lower than the outside temperature (not 25-30 degrees), and that I will NOT be replacing the entire friggin' system. They are trying to get me to reimburse their electric bill because it has risen this summer. They are stating that because the system is inefficient, they've had their A/C running more than they should have. They're claiming monthly bills that match up to amounts I paid when I lived there, so I probably will not reimburse them at all. As an alternative to completely replacing the system, I offered to send one or two window units to help cool them off. From a technical perspective, the A/C system is working just right. There are no leaks, and it's cooling the home 15-20 degrees less than the outside temperature. 1.) Is the alternative I offered legal (I'll send them A/C window units at my expense)? 2.) Do I have a legal obligation to COMPLETELY replace the A/C (I already took actions to make sure it wasn't broken)? It basically seems like they want to replace it for a more efficient one at my expense - not because it's broken, but because it isn't cooling the home by 30 degrees. 3.) If the A/C window units are a good alternative, how do I make sure they don't take off with them when they end their lease? Thanks in advance! Oh, and I always pick a "Best Answer" - nice way to get yourself some Yahoo! points.

A. 1. Dang nice of you. 2. No the AC is reducing the temp a reasonable amount. 3. Increase the deposit somewhat to cover the cost if they choose to have the units. P.S. You might want to check the insulation. For much less than the cost of the new A/C units you could reduce the temp in the house. Plus there are tax incentives.

Q. Although the deputy was as careful as possible, the black powder used for fingerprinting seems to have gotten everywhere. I cleaned up all surfaces that I saw, but some got into the carpet. I can wash my sons feet, and within 15 minutes they look like he has spent a day out in the sand box. Black is everywhere. I would like to know if that could be a cover-able expense to submit to insurance. Also I've never had to submit a house insurance claim before, what should I expect? How bad will they try to scr*w me over? There are caps on certain items like jewelry. I won't get a penny for any of the jewelry, because the cap is the same as my deductible. Pretty ironic I think. That is $4500 out the window. A rifle was stolen, electronics, laptop and a power drill. I know I added a rider for full replacement value when I bought the policy. So why would an adjuster come, when there aren't any prices to adjust for depreciation?? Would it be worth my while to hire a public adjuster?? How much do they cost?? I've been doing some leg work, and been canvassing the neighborhood. My neighbor had some strange man knock on her door about 15 minutes before my house was burglarized. He asked for a fictitious person. The only time someone wasn't home was between 10 am and 10:20. My other neighbor was walking with her mom, and say the same people about 5 minutes before that. One neighbor said that a man meeting that same description was seen running from another burglarized house. My foot work has led me to an address and the fact the man just got out of jail. I spoke to one of that man's neighbors, and off the record (He is afraid and won't speak to police), has told me where the second person lives. He had the other person walking around his house, looking to see if someone was home. The second persons house is filled with the stereotypical gang bangers. I told the detective what I found out, and gave him addresses. Obviously the insurance company doesn't want to pay. If I tell the insurance company what I told the detective, Do you think they'll put a fire under the police's butts?? I already contacted the local cash 4 gold places, and I'll be present when they are open this weekend to see if my jewelry comes in. If it is the same two people, they have been connected to 3-5 previous burglaries. I am really p*ssed off. I would love to recover my stuff. Even if I don't I'm afraid they could come back for more. They didn't take my large tv, or the big computer, and other things. I know they were looking for pain medications, because they stole a chain out of my medicine cabinet. They didn't find my legal (I have an Rx) stash of pills. They need to be caught. I am trying to do what I can, without endangering my children. When I get my insurance check, I will be applying for a concealed weapons permit. I should have walked in on them, but was held up at my son's doctor office for those 15 minutes. I don't want to think what would have happened to my 20 month and 3 year old walking in on two burglars. Even the afraid neighbor said, all the police need is a search warrant, and they will find a treasure trove. I just need to find a way to make that happen. Any ideas?? Oh last thing . . .I really needed a drink after the deputy left, to help me de-stress, BUT I couldn't. They also stole my bottle of vodka. Nice huh?? If there is anything I missed, that you think is important, please let me know. Thanks for helping.

A. The black powder into the carpet should be clean-able. A vacuum with a HEPA filter should do it. When you add replacement cost coverage, that lets you get replacement cost AFTER you've replaced the item. You still get the depreciated value up front, then you submit the receipt, to get the recoverable depreciation back. I think you're misunderstanding that cap. If you have a $1,000 cap, $1,000 deductible and $2,000 jewelry stolen, you still get $1,000. Plus, that deductible gets applied to the TOTAL LIST of things stolen, and only once. That cap also applies to firearms. A public adjuster takes 10% of the total loss. It's NOT worth it, BEFORE you've even heard the offer from your insurance company. Don't jump the gun, giving away 10% before you even have tried negotiating with the adjuster. I'm not sure why "obviously the insurance doesn't want to pay". This is a routine claim, and claims like this get paid all the time. The insurance company CANNOT "put a fire under the police butts". It's not their place. But they WILL likely talk to the detective, and ask if they've checked out the lead you gave them. I don't believe you need a concealed carry permit, to keep a handgun in your own home. That's only if you want to carry in public. Be sure if you decide to go this route, that you learn how to use it correctly, practice regularly, and keep it out of reach of your son. If you have any friends that own a barky dog you can borrow, I'd seriously think about borrowing a dog for a while. One that barks at the least provocation. Or at least, putting up "beware of dog" signs, and walking SOMEONES dog around your block in front of that house a few times.

Q. Our contract specifies that we are to hire our own painter. The painter came and painted when requested to do so. After this our contractor had to re-open the wall to install a shower valve that was missed during installation. The contractor now expects the painter to repaint for no additional charge, and claims this is completely "normal". No mural, just prime & one color of paint.

A. I am a 37 year experienced painter and we call this "extras"...The builder subcontracted the work out to the painter, and the painter did his job..we usually allow one free touch up after a job is completed and the owner does a ":walk through"..however this is simply a touch up..any new patches, possibly new door or window replacement or moving them, or any other structural damge to the drywall etcetera is considered an "extra" and the contractor should pay the paint sub the extra monies torepair something the builder overlooked..the same as any leaks in the plumbing etcetera, if the drywall is cut out to repair the leak, or for any reason in that manner..the contractor has to pay for it... We do not continiously repair other peoples mistakes for free..Our one time free touch up is a touch up from a few marks, handprints on thewal etcetera..but does not include free patching and repairs...The contractor created the problem so he is responsible to pay the painter....

Q. Ok so, my family owns window companies in Illinois. Window replacement, siding, roofs, doors, etc. Basically they have relationships with factories that they buy their products from and have 2 teams of installers who actuallly install the products. I live in southern california and wanted to open a division of the family business here. I have been doing a little research and I am finding that most window company owners have contractors license. Is this required? Is there a way around it if my installers are licensed? Anyone with knowledge in this area would be appreciated thanks! Just to clarify my question: Does the retail portion of sales need a contractors license? OBVIOUSLY the actual installers doing the work would be licensed.

A. Yes. You need to be licensed if the TOTAL JOB (cost of the window, plus the installation) is more than $500. If you sub the work out to installers who are licensed, that just makes you the prime contractor on the job because you are the one with the direct contractual relationship with the homeowner. You must be a licensed contractor for this (if over $500). As a licensed contractor, you can either have your own employees do the installation, or you can sub it out to another licensed contractor. But you must be licensed yourself in order to have a direct contractual relationship with the homeowner.

Q. Is the government tax rebate for energy efficient replacement of roofs and windows a one time slush pile, or can you qualify for $1500 for roofing and $1500 for windows? One person mentioned $6000 which I found confusing. Another said must owe $1500 in taxes to qualify. I am assuming that means you have already paid in more than $1500 in federal tax money for the year to qualify to get up to $1500 of it back. If that is the case I surely do qualify in spades.

A. The answer CAN be found at the IRS website. I suggest you try using google like this: "energy rebate" window limit year site:irs.gov That should set you in the right direction. From the actual source, not hearsay 3rd parties. If my answer is the best, please vote as best answer. Thank you.

Q. I am thinking to remodel my kitchen and 2 bathrooms and also thinking to redecorate my house.Please tell me any ideas or personal experience about those projects. Do you hire indepentent contractors for each project or a general contractor to oversee the whole project? How did you find them. Word of mouth or ads? How about the cost? I have no idea how much something like this will cost. End result: Do you love it? Hate it? What do you wish had done differently? Any help is appreciated as I have never done a remodeling project before

A. If you are doing a full remodel on the kitchen with new appliances and cabinetry, flooring, want to move the sink or stove to another wall, you will probably rack up a good bill, like 12K to 35K or more depending on size, location (CA is higher than anywhere) and tastes in finishes matters. Like, do you want simple and marketable or fancy marble counters and a new picture window. Things like that cost beaucoup. Bathrooms can cost a lot too with fixtures and finish being the big ticket. If you are on a budget, like the cabinets and just want to give it a new look you can get by fairly inexpensively if you don't find any whammies like water damage, plumbing problems or code issues. I recommend for any level job to talk with as many people as you can about it. Start with looking through magazines and books at the home centers that focus specifically on this subject area. I wouldn't buy the books, just look through them and get ideas. If one has the dream kitchen or bath in it, yeah buy it and show it as an example to the contractor. The better they see what you want the more accurate their estimate will be and more likely you will get what you want. Plan on getting a minimum of three estimates, seven is best, but that is hard to do and you may get a bad reputation and a pain in the @ss. Investigate the contractors you consider using, ASK FOR REFERALS from all serious contenders for the work. Actually talk to people they have worked for and try to see the work in person. Inspect it like you would your kitchen or bath. Look for details like the molding makes straight joints and the caulking is clean and thorough. Ask if it was on budget, on time and why not if not? It isn't always because of the contractor, some owners change their minds and add time and cost themselves. This usually leads to add-on terms to the contract, or should, so you both get what you expect. Remember that add ons not written down are potential lawsuits waiting to happen for both sides. If you are design-disadvantaged, hiring a designer as the general contractor can be a blessing and well worth the cost. They usually have guys that work with them regularly and that is like prequalifying them. They can do all the leg work for you, like picking out wallpaper and color matches for finish surfaces. They can do anything from a quick makeover to full blown remodels that require an architect or engineer depending on the designer. Now is a good time in most places because the housing slump, so there are hungry contractors out there ready to work more cheaply than when work is abundant. Dont be quick to jump on a great offer cause price isn't as good as quality work. Remember, you can counter offer their bids as well. Remember that a month without a kitchen or bath can be murder on a family or a busy professional. Solicit experiences from family, friends, webblogs, coworkers and people on the street to find out more. Make notes when you see something you like in a friend's kitchen or on Martha Stewart or ? Appliances don't have to be the most expensive to be great quality, check Consumers Reports to find the best quality items to use from toasters to Refrigerators to building material. And personally, don't overdo your financial commitment. Stick to your budget, make a plan and follow the plan. Know what you want or find someone to do it for you. Also, consult a realtor or builder about how the remodel will impact the resale value of your home or condo. Is it worth the expense if you plan to move or relocate. Will it throw the property out of kilter, meaning "now the kitchen and baths look so good the living room and the bedrooms need another $50K of work...or we have the nicest kitchen in the tri-state area. If you are planning on staying forever, then please your needs and tastes. If your job could move you around or the kids are growing up and out and you may downsize later, consider putting the money into bonds and wait for when you get your dream house for retirement. But most of all try to enjoy the process, make it an adventure in learning and loving the journey. A good attitude from all involved should be foremost. Redecorating the house in general will be less in cost than one bathroom probably, save major changes or problems, but there again, all things apply. Make the budget and plan and allow for 15-25% add on costs for problems and delays. If you have an older home this is a very real potential addon cost factor. Have someone check your entire home as well. The roof, HVAC, plumbing, house foundation, exterior finish all can matter and if you blow your budget on the kitchen and baths, then the roof goes bad unexpectedly, you will be left in a major pickle financially. Make sure your systems work first, take care of things there first. A leaky roof will destroy your new kitchen and bath in one rainfall. Does that old tree need to come out before a wndstorm knocks it into the house. What about the neighborhood, are you over-valued already? After the work is done, be sure to document your expenses, new appliances and other possessions with a home inventory and make sure your insurance is full replacement value to cover the old and the new stuff. Homeownership is a full time job and you can avoid major woes by being thorough from the start of a major investment of time. You may find you have termite damage and realize that you can get the remodel partially paid for by the insurance payoff or that the house is so far gone you'd be better off just selling and starting over elsewhere. Be informed and don't be afraid to ask stupid questions. If for nothing else but to see the look on their faces! hehe. Good luck!

Q. My kitchen is 25 years old. If I can only replace one thing per month, should I begin with an energy star refrigerator? Do you replace the floor before or after the refrigerator? Would the dishwasher be the next appliance in order of energy savings? Or the lighting? And then the stove? Would the cabinet work be done before or after the lighting? Should I prioritize aquiring an energy efficient washer & dryer? My intent is to save energy and improve safety (the stove) and have peace of mind about the appearance of the kitchen. Thank you all for your answers. Earthwoman, thanks for mentioning possible wiring upgrade and drain replacement. Since this will be a LOW budget project, I like the idea of asking the store to help with a plan, too. Each of you have helped me.

A. What an exciting project and how fraught with headaches. We bought an old farm house and when I got to the kitchen I learned a lot. It would be nice if you can afford to do it all at once. If not, you might want to do the Home Depot thing and get them to draw up a plan. But do start by listing everything you want to accomplish and drawing a diagram of your kitchen. List the appliances you have and how old they are. Refrigerators are always a villian when it comes to electricity waste. Plus newer appliances are built to be more efficient, use less electricity, gas, water. Shop around and get the info from local dealers or on-line. Leave the floor for the last. And don't get caught up in the expensive counter tops, sinks and flooring. I have asphalt floor tile like they use in Walmarts. It is tough, easy to clean and looks good. The kitchen is a work shop, not a fashion statement. And you are the one who has to clean it. Tile counters are sharp until you have to scrub the grout clean. Corian and granite chip and dull. Yes, they really do. I don't know what you are doing in cabinets. Are you replacing the fronts? Or the whole thing? That should be before you do the counters and the lights. We dropped the ceiling and put in flourescent tubes. I can turn a light on over any section of counter or turn one on for general lighting. Make sure you have a good plumber and electrican involved. A 25 year old kitchen might need some up grades in wiring and I guarantee the drain pipes are in need of replacement. Get a sink that is deep enough to wash a pot in. And get a facet set with a sprayer. Check out the water consumption on the dishwasher and the new washer and dryer. I love my Fisher & Paykel set. They are really the best I have ever owned and I have been keeping house for 50 years. My first washer had a wringer! Ask about them at your appliance store. We have a well and septic system, so I try to be very conservative in water and electric use. Consider double pane windows and a nice wide window seal inside to set a plant on. We can have efficiency and beauty in our kitchen. Good Luck